Nothing can warm your heart like the sight of your daughter stepping off a train. Mary-Margaret arrived on Saturday to ride with us to Vienna.

You know your way around a bike? the guy at the hire shop asks her. Yep. She’s ridden them on rail trails, Auckland’s mean streets, commutes to work in London on one, has a partner who generally has two or three bikes in bits in a workshop. She’s good to go.

Out of Krems we roll, back onto the EV6 cycle route, back alongside the Donau river, back into the serenity and calm of it all. She exclaims at the beauty of it all, she loves the ease of it.